Getting to the bottom of 'Muddy but Mighty'

For the uninitiated, first glance at the Mekong River in Vietnam can leave first timers feeling… well, a little underwhelmed. The fast-flowing, swirling currents carrying whirlpools and eddies that wash against her murky banks provoke wonderment in many as to why it’s so often referred to as ‘mighty’. 

But allow yourself to be swept along by boat on the coffee-coloured waterways of Vietnam’s deltas and finger-like tributaries, and you’ll soon see the beauty and power these waters bring…

Here, life flows slowly, more simply and in harmony with the seasons. The tropical monsoon rains bring an abundance of this life-force (estimated to be a whopping 830 billion cubic meters annually!) whilst the Mekong River itself boasts a biodiversity that ranks second only to the Amazon, cascading from the high Tibetan plateau where it begins, before snaking almost 5,000 kilometres through the rapids, waterfalls and gorges of Southern China, Myanmar, Laos and Cambodia before finally, connecting the mountains at its source with the turquoise sea off the coast of southern Vietnam.

These waters run deep into daily life and connect all things, from the communities that rely on them for trade along the surface, to the birdlife, plants and animals that thrive in them. There’s no better view to it all than by cruising the waterways, canals and coastline that stretch wide across the country’s landscapes.

Take a slow rowboat ride through the towering limestone cliffs of Ninh Binh and you’ve drifted into a land that time forgot. Known as the ‘Ha Long Bay’ of the land, calls of the endangered Delacour Langur echo through the karsts as black-faced spoonbills wade amongst the tall grasses of the nature reserve – a tiny glimpse into the biodiversity that rely on these waters at surface level.

Cruise the limestone caves in a bamboo boat off the coast around the Lan Ha Bay archipelago and beneath the surface swim some of the tastiest ingredients of Vietnamese cuisine; lobster, crab, squid and all manner of ocean life.

Fishermen harvest oysters for sauce, as well as shrimp and (love-them-or-leave-them!), anchovies for paste – two of the country’s staple condiments that form the flavoursome foundation of humble family meals at home, to the mouth-watering curb side street food offerings of Hoi An, Hue and Ho Chi Minh City.

The next time you buy rice from the supermarket, be sure to check the label. As one of the largest exporters of the grain, Vietnam’s waters may have even trickled as far as your own kitchen! Drift along the Mekong in the south and you’re sailing straight into the steamy ‘Rice Bowl’ of Southeast Asia! 

Even Vietnam’s fashion and folklore are soaked in her waters – from the beautiful and highly sought-after silks and textiles to the conical hat known as a non-la that women have been wearing for thousands of years.

Woven from bamboo, palm leaves and reeds, its instantly recognisable shape shields against the elements – having been brought from the sky by a giant woman as protection from the typhoons… so ancient legend tells. 

You just try to think of Vietnam without conjuring to mind the quintessential rural scene of farmers wearing the non-lah, harvesting crops against the lush, fluorescent green landscape of the rice paddies. It’s impossible!

Just outside Hoi An is the Tra Que Organic Village where the full spectrum of greenery from the Pantone colour chart bursts from the soil in neat, respectable rows. Basil, mint, saw-tooth coriander and morning glory are just a few of the 40 herbs and vegetables that have been grown here for over 400 years, nourished by waters of the nearby Co Co River.

The farmers here tend their crops in traditional ways, without the use of modern machinery, using methods unchanged from a century ago. Vietnamese cuisine is unmistakably fresh, aromatic and unhurried, reflecting the simplicity of life in its flavour. As in life, it too can pack a spicy little unexpected punch! Place your trust in a ca phe sua da, (a Vietnamese iced coffee made with sweetened, condensed milk) to extinguish any flames!

Tastebuds aside, it’s our sense of smell that powers our connection between the present and past, and there’s no more aptly named method to carry you into Vietnam’s prismatic history than along the Perfume River.

Dividing two halves of the ancient capital Hue, locals here bring to surface intimate stories and memories of the Viet Nam War, before the river itself sweeps you back in time to the Nguyen dynasty at the bronze casting village of Phuong Duc. Since the 17th century, riverside artisans have created coins, weapons, urns and significant artworks of national treasure – infusing cool river water into the traditional casting process, forging tangible bonds between Vietnam’s history, art and home life.

The simplest symbol of the prolific power and beauty of Vietnam’s waterways though, can be witnessed at dawn. Just look for the dragonflies and they’ll lead you directly to it, flitting and hovering over the delicate petals and aquatic leaves of the lotus; the national flower which grows in abundance, floating quietly on the surface of rivers, lakes and lagoons.

Each night, the lotus closes its petals, slipping silently under the muddy, mineral rich waters which give it life, only to rise and re-emerge elegantly with the sunrise.

Beauty, power, poetry – all hidden in the waterways of Vietnam!